Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Last day: Giolitti, Cecilia, and Bartholomew

Today was our final day in Rome. As I write this a crowd is gathering down the street at the Colosseum for New Year's Eve. The new year will be here by morning with or without our help, and we have to leave first thing in the morning, so I think we'll stay put.

Of course, we had to stop by the Trevi Fountain to throw our coins in, with a hope that we can one day return here again. We also had to have our fairwell gelato, so we stopped by perhaps the best geleteria in Rome, Giolotti. They have a wide selection, and each one is incredibly full of flavor. If you ever get to Rome you have to try this place. Seriously.

Then we headed to Trastevere again to visit the church of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. As the name suggests, this church houses the body of St. Cecilia, who the 2nd century virgin and martyr who was originally buried in the catacombs which we visited a few days ago. Her body was found to be incorrupt when they moved her remains there in the 9th century, and when the body was exhumed in 1599 it was found to still be incorrupt. An artist who witnessed the later exhumation created a sculpture depicting exactly what it looked like. That sculpture is directly in front of the main altar of the church. We also visited the excavations under the church, where a house dating from the days of the Roman Republic were found. There is a chapel among these excavations directly underneath the main alter where the actual burial crypt lays. St. Cecilia is the patron saint for musicians and is also the saint whom Emily chose for her confirmation, so the whole experience was especially meaningful for her.

On our way back we walked across the bridge to a small island in the middle of the Tiber called Isola Tiberina. We noticed a church on the island with the Latin inscription translated "In this basilica rests the body of St. Bartholomew, Martyr and Apostle". When we went in we found that the base of the main altar was a sarcophogus identified as containing St. Batholomew's body. That alone wsas pretty cool, but what was especially cool was the side altars containing relics of the "Nuova Martyri", the new martyrs of the 20th century. On separate altars were martyrs from the Americas (including Oscar Romero) , Africa, Mexico and Spain, Nazism, Communism, and the Middle East. With so much of church in Rome built on the blood of early martyrs, I have never seen another church recognizing that even today some are called on to give their lives for their faith. Very cool indeed.

My next update will be from back home. Arriverderci Roma!

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Scavi

We had the great privilege today to go to the tomb of St. Peter. They only allow about 120 people a day to enter the excavations (or scavi) below St. Peter's basilica so we really are among the favored few. I have heard that you need to book this at least six months in advance, but we were able to secure these tickets in October. We are very happy that we did.

St. Peter's grave was a simple pauper's grave in the middle of a pagan cemetery on Vatican Hill. The early church in Rome knew of it's location and eventually erected a monument over it in order to prevent other pagan tombs from being built over it. Constantine's original basilica was built with the main altar directly over the place of the grave, and when the new basilica was built in the 1600's they did the same. However all of this was done on faith that the grave actually was where they thought it was. They had no archeological proof, only tradition. Starting in 1939 the Pope ordered excavations to take place secretly (so as not to call any attention by the fascist government). They eventually found the grave right where it should be, and identified the bone fragments as belonging to a 1st century man between 60 and 70 years old, of sturdy build, but without any foot bone fragments found. The missing feet make sense when you consider that the persecuted church in the time of Nero probably had to take the body away quickly, and since Peter was crucified upside-down they probably had to cut off his feet to do it. There are other factors that taken together all confirm that these are the bones of the fisherman that Jesus called to follow him; the Rock on which Jesus established His church.

From our place from about 10 feet away we could actually see some of the bone fragments, which were encased in lucite in order to prevent any further deteriorations. It was an emotional and awe-inspiring experience. If you ever have a chance to travel to Rome you should definitely try well in advance to obtain tickets to the scavi.

Monday, December 29, 2008

Lots of stuff over three days

I haven't had time to update for a few days, so here goes...

We had gotten in late from Assisi on Friday so everyone slept in a while on Saturday. Since most places close for a few hours of siesta in the afternoon we tried to schedule our remaining time to the fullest.

We started with the basilica of St. Peter in Chains, which houses the chains which held St. Peter in Jerusalem, fused together with chains that held him in the nearby Mamertine prison. The church is also famous for Michelangelo's statue of Moses. The church is not far from our apartment, but it is in an out-of-the-way location and the hills confused us, so we wandered and backtracked a few times until we located it. This was one that we did not visit during our last time here, so we're glad we were able to.

From there it was down the street to St. Mary Major, with a brief stop (before we were kicked out for siesta) at the nearby Santa Pressede with its exquisite Byzantine mosaics. Our last time at St. Mary Major we did not have a chance to really explore, so we were glad to have another opportunity there. Previously when we visited we were not able to descend to the confessio under the main altar, but it was open for us this time. The principle relic located there is some large fragments of the manger, which was very cool to see and venerate just two days after Christmas!

After lunch we headed to St. Paul Outside the Walls. Pope Benedict has declared this to be the Year of St. Paul, so it was a great honor for us to be able to visit this basilica during this special year. We lit a cande for our pilgrimage intentions from the "Pauline Flame" which Pope Benedict lit when he inaugurated the Pauline Year, and entered through a special "Pauline Door" which was designed and decorated for the occasion. In the confessio we could see the end of the sarcophogus holding St. Paul's headless body. (The head resides along with St. Peter's in the Lateran basilica).

We finished off this busy day with a visit to the Capuchin Crypts, which are lined with the bones of 1000's of Capuchin monks as a way to remind us of our own mortality (Beth didn't care for this at all!) and then went to visit the basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, which houses several remarkable relics of Christ's passion, including the True Cross, one of the nails from the crucifixion, two of the thorns from the crown of thorns, and the finger of St. Thomas.

And that was just Saturday.

On Sunday we got up early so we could make it to the Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. We got there in plenty of time to get a good seat. The mass was in Latin with all of the major prayers done in Gregorian Chant. Pretty cool. Immediately after mass we had to rush outside because the weekly Angelus was already in progress. We were not able to get anywhere near as close as we were previously, but still it was cool. It was also cold, wet, and rainy!

We decided to see the neighborhood of Trastevere, which is located south of the Vatican. The bus ride there took us through some beautiful areas high on a hill with some incredible views of Rome. In better weather it would have been nice to get off the bus there and have a picnic. We found a good place to eat with a friendly waiter and then visited the church of Santa Maria in Trestevere, which is the oldest church to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

We didn't have much time left before things shut down, but after returning to our apartment we did get to visit the Mamertine prison, which is right next to the Roman Forum. This is where Peter and Paul were both held prior to their executions. We saw the pillar to which Peter was chained while he was a prisoner there, as well as the spring from which he baptized his fellow prisoners whom he preached to.

Today (Monday) we first visited the Catacombs of San Callisto, which is where 16 of the early popes were buried, as well as St. Cecilia. The priest who led our English-speaking tour was very good, and included the theological significance of the symbols which we could see on the walls.

Then we headed back to the Vatican to tour the Vatican Museum. The clear high-lights for me were the Raphael rooms (a series of rooms containing frescoes by Raphael) and the Sistine Chapel, with Michelangelo's famous ceiling and fresco of the Last Judgment. Our feet were killing us by the end of the day.

We only have a couple days left before we have to return home. It has been a great trip so far.

Friday, December 26, 2008

Assisi

On Friday we took a day trip to Assisi, leaving before 8:00 AM and getting back after 8:00 PM. We hit the major pilgimage spots -- Santa Maria degli Angeli, whch houses the Porziuncola (the church that St. Francis built, and where he died), the basilicas of St. Francis and St. Clare, and the church of San Damiano. I was particuarly moved while praying in the Porziuncola, before the famed San Damiano crucifix housed in a special chapel at the Basilica of St. Clare, and in the tranquil quiet of the church of San Damiano.

It was very cold in Assisi. They were forecasting freezing rain, which did not materialize, but the wind was ferocious. The views of the countryside were stunning, even with the heavy clouds, and the city of Assisi is fascinating with it's medieval fortifications and narrow, winding streets. On a nice day it would have been pleasant to just explore and enjoy, but we were never so happy to be back on a warm train.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Urbi et Orbi

Merry Christmas!

Today we went back to the Vatican for the Pope's Urbi et Orbi blessing. This was a very solemn affair, preceded by a parade of the Swiss Guard and the various Italian military forces. We got there a little after 11, and were able to stand fairly close, but St. Peter's Square was totally filled by noon. The Urbi et Orbi (to the City [of Rome] and the World) is delivered from the central loggia above the main doors to St. Peter's Basilica. The address was given in Italian but the translation is available on the Vatican web site. After the address he gave a brief Christmas greeting in over 60 languages, including English, Russian, Vietnamese, Thai, Swedish, etc, concluding with the solemn blessing. It was a pretty cool way of recalling how the church is "catholic" (or "universal") in the true sense of the word.

The metro stopped running at 1:00, so we decided to walk back to our apartment. It was only about 4 km and there was not much traffic on the roads, so it was a pleasant walk. When we reached the stretch between Piazza Venezia and the Colosseum alongside the Roman Forum the road was closed to cars, so hundreds of people filled the street. It was breath-taking to be able to enjoy the ancient sights without the usual traffic congestion. Fortunately for us the rain which was forecasted didn't materialize until much later.

For now, ciao!

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Days 4 and 5

We have been so busy during the day and so tired by the time we get back to our apartment that I have not had time to update for a couple of days.

On Monday we visited the Colosseum as we planned, and continued on to tour the Forum and Palatine Hill. It was interesting to try to envision the original grandeur through the ruins. We topped the day off with a tour of the excavations beneath San Clemente, seeing the old 5th century church, and below it the 2nd century pagan temple. I especially enjoyed making out the faded frescoes in the old church. I don't think Beth enjoyed the scavi very much though -- she was kind of creeped out by the subterranean feel.

On Tuesday we visited the Borghese Gallery. It is in the original estate of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, who gained his red hat courtesy of his uncle, Pope Paul V, in an egregious case of nepotism. He was a corrupt scoundral, but we now can benefit from the collection of fine art that he amassed during his lifetime. The Gallery contains several sculptures by Bernini as well as paintings by Carravagio and Raphael (among many others). We rented the self-guided audio tour, which was well worth it. The two hours that they allowed us went by too fast.

After that we decided to split up, allowing Rebekah and Emily to explore without us. We visited the churches of Santa Maria della Vitoria (which contains another exquisite Bernini scupture), Santa Susanna (the American church in Rome) and Santa Maria degli Angeli (a Michalangelo-built churh inside the remains of an old Roman bath), before ending up at St. Mary Major. We arrived at Mary Major during vespers, so we stayed for vespers and mass. We want to get back to Santa Maria degli Angeli just before noon on a sunny day so that we can see the sun's projection cross the meridian embedded in the floor, which marks the calendar so they could accurately calculate the date for Easter.

All around town, in churches as well as secular buildings, we find presepio, or nativity scenes. Of course, the manger currently lies empty until Christmas Eve tonight, and in many cases the entire presepio is currently hidden behind a curtain of burlap. It will be exciting during our remaining week here to see all of the presepios in full display.

Our plan for today is to go back and visit Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, along with a few other churches in the area. We wil attend Christmas Eve Mass at Santa Susanna (in English), and tomorrow will brave the rain they are forecasting to return to St. Peter's for the Pope's Christmas blessing.

Wishing you all Buon Natale!

Monday, December 22, 2008

Vidimus Papam

We made it to St. Peter's for the Sunday Angelus, where we had the opportunity to see Pope Benedict XVI from his bedroom balcony. Our original intent was to get to St. Peter's for the 10:30 mass, but underestimated the time it would take to get there or the long line to pass through security. So we decided to shop for a little while in the nearby stores, where Michael and Beth both bought some rosaries to have blessed, and then waited near the obelisk for the Angelus to begin. By the time 12:00 rolled around the piazza was nearly full, but we had no problem in seeing the Holy Father above the crowds at his window. After his homily (in Italian) and the Angelus he addressed the crowds briefly in English, Spanish, French, Polish, and German. It probably lasted less than 10 minutes, but it was well worth the effort.

We decided to brave the lines and entered St. Peter's. If you have never been there it is hard to comprehend the vastness, although the overall scale makes it feel intimate at the same time (if that makes any sense). We toured the basillica for a couple hours, and then left to have a quick lunch of pizza and gellato, then returned again (with a MUCH shorter line) for the 4:00 mass at the main altar (the altar of the chair). This was immediately followed by vespers, so we stayed for that and are very happy that we did. There was a small all-male choir that led the singing, and several times they broke into 4-part harmony. I have never hear Gregorian Chant sung in harmony before, but it was incredible. I pulled out my mp3 player to record some of it, but I haven't had a chance yet to see how it turned out. I may post some of it later if it comes out good.

By the time we left it was dark (the sun sets about 4:30 at this time of year) so we decided to take an evening stroll down towards Castel Sant' Angelo which provided this stunning view of St. Peter's.

We tried a pizzaria west of Piazza Navona that was recommended by our host as the best in Rome. The house special was good, but a little strange, topped in the center with a fried egg, but the Quattro Fromaggio was the best I've ever had. We enjoyed that with the house red wine, which was also quite good.

There was a Christmas concert at St. John Lateran that Rebekah and Emily wanted to go to, but the younger kids were too tired, so we decided to split up. We enjoyed an evening stroll through Piazza Navona, which was holding a Christmas festival, and then on to see the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. We'll be back to all of these sites during daylight hours, but it was nice to see them at night.

The plan for today (Monday) is the Colloseum and Forum. I'll post an update when I can.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Day 2

Yesterday was mostly spent traveling and sleeping, with just a brief venture out to walk around the Colosseum and get some pizza and gelato, so this was our first full day.

Our apartment is just a block down the street from the Basilica of San Clemente so we started our day with mass at there. The mass, of course, was entirely in Italian, but we followed along as best we could. After mass, while looking around the basilica, the priest greeted us, When we told him we didn't speak Italian he immediately switched to English with an unmistakable brogue. It turns out that San Clemente has run by the Irish Dominican Friars since the 17th century, so we talked with him for a few minutes about the basilica and the excavations beneath. We plan to return there to tour the excavations of the older 5th century basilica and the 2nd century pagan temple found below it.

After a typical Roman breakfast consisting of cornetti from a next-door bakery and cappuccino, we spent the rest of the morning waiting for Rebekah's arrival. She got in around noon, and we enjoyed some time catching up with her before heading out for some more sight-seeing.

We then walked down to St. John Lateran, the "mother and head" of the church, and one of the four major basilcas in Rome. It is dedicated to both St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist. This was the home of the popes for many centuries, and is the actual cathedral of Rome, and therefore, the Pope's cathedral. The structure is massive and we spent a long time exploring the many side altars and the incredible mosaics, frescos, and statues. The elaborate canopy structure over the high altar is actually a reliquary containing the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul.

Dorene was particularly intrigued by the intricate mosaic floors found in both San Clemente and John Lateran, and took several pictures with the thought of some day making quilts inspired by the floor patterns.


Tomorrow we plan to visit St. Peters for morning mass and hope to see Pope Benedict during his weekly public Angelus.

Enough for tonight -- it's time to see if we can get some sleep with a loud karaoke party in the apartment above hopefully winding down.

Ciao

Friday, December 19, 2008

Roman Holiday

I decided to start a blog to record our experiences during our Christmas vacation in Rome. I'm a late adopter to blogging, but what better opportunity to get started?

We originally booked a non-stop flight from LAX to Rome about three months ago, but Alitalia did not bother to tell us that they decided not to run that service until two days before our scheduled flight. Fortunately Delta has a code-sharing arrangement with Alitalia, so I was able to make alternate arrangements with a layover in New York. The downside is that we had to get up at 3am to make our flight, so we started the trip sleep-deprived. I'm not yet sure whether that is going to help or hinder our jet-lag. I'm awake now at 4am, so I guess it will probably take me a couple of days to acclimate.


The flight over was long and tiring. My 6'3" frame could not get comfortable in those incredibly tight seats, so I don't think I got more than a few hours of sleep. When we got to Rome it took us about an hour and a half to get our luggage, but the representative from the car service was very understanding and helpful in letting us know what was going on. We met the property manager at our apartment (just down the street from the Coliseum), and after getting settled in everyone crashed for a few hours of much-needed sleep.


I'm going to try to get some more sleep now, and then we want to get up to get to go to morning mass at the Basilica of San Clemente, which is just a block away. Rebekah comes today! More later.

Ciao!