Days 4 and 5

We have been so busy during the day and so tired by the time we get back to our apartment that I have not had time to update for a couple of days.

On Monday we visited the Colosseum as we planned, and continued on to tour the Forum and Palatine Hill. It was interesting to try to envision the original grandeur through the ruins. We topped the day off with a tour of the excavations beneath San Clemente, seeing the old 5th century church, and below it the 2nd century pagan temple. I especially enjoyed making out the faded frescoes in the old church. I don't think Beth enjoyed the scavi very much though -- she was kind of creeped out by the subterranean feel.

On Tuesday we visited the Borghese Gallery. It is in the original estate of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, who gained his red hat courtesy of his uncle, Pope Paul V, in an egregious case of nepotism. He was a corrupt scoundral, but we now can benefit from the collection of fine art that he amassed during his lifetime. The Gallery contains several sculptures by Bernini as well as paintings by Carravagio and Raphael (among many others). We rented the self-guided audio tour, which was well worth it. The two hours that they allowed us went by too fast.

After that we decided to split up, allowing Rebekah and Emily to explore without us. We visited the churches of Santa Maria della Vitoria (which contains another exquisite Bernini scupture), Santa Susanna (the American church in Rome) and Santa Maria degli Angeli (a Michalangelo-built churh inside the remains of an old Roman bath), before ending up at St. Mary Major. We arrived at Mary Major during vespers, so we stayed for vespers and mass. We want to get back to Santa Maria degli Angeli just before noon on a sunny day so that we can see the sun's projection cross the meridian embedded in the floor, which marks the calendar so they could accurately calculate the date for Easter.

All around town, in churches as well as secular buildings, we find presepio, or nativity scenes. Of course, the manger currently lies empty until Christmas Eve tonight, and in many cases the entire presepio is currently hidden behind a curtain of burlap. It will be exciting during our remaining week here to see all of the presepios in full display.

Our plan for today is to go back and visit Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, along with a few other churches in the area. We wil attend Christmas Eve Mass at Santa Susanna (in English), and tomorrow will brave the rain they are forecasting to return to St. Peter's for the Pope's Christmas blessing.

Wishing you all Buon Natale!